‘The Dorito Effect,’ by Mark Schatzker
A few years ago I sat with a friend and looked at a menu, and we wondered why everything seemed to be flavored like a taco. Or Caesar salad or maple syrup. I couldn’t quite say what about it bothered me, but I held a conviction that something was wrong in a thing — a Mexican snack, salad dressing, tree sap — being turned into a flavor. I remained wary without knowing why. In “The Dorito Effect,” an illuminating and sometimes radical book, Mark Schatzker shores up my unease with good evidence.