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America’s meat supply is cheap and efficient. Covid-19 showed why that’s a problem.
Johnathan Hladik was on his phone, calling one butcher after another, desperate to find a slaughterhouse that had space for a few of the Berkshire hogs that he raises on his family farm in eastern Nebraska. It was spring 2020, the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, and the coronavirus was rolling through the country’s massive slaughterhouses, where employees worked in crowded, indoor spaces at a time when protective gear like face masks was scarce.