I went surfing for the first time while on vacation in Bali. I'm familiar and comfortable in the ocean and spent a large portion of my childhood boogie boarding so I didn't think much of anything of it when I had to swim out about a quarter of a mile to waves. First wave comes and sure enough, I had retained my good timing from my years of boogie boarding and get a good jump on it. If I had been riding a boogie board, it would have been a really nice ride. Except I was on a surfboard and was at the crest of the wave when it occurred to me that I didn't know what to do next. So lying on my stomach and clenching the board I rode the wave straight down, piledriving myself into the water. Cue what washing machine. The board shoots out and the worn velcro bracelet on my ankle rips off and I'm left swimming by myself. It was at this point I realized how far out I was and how the waves were a lot more powerful than originally expected. I started swimming in getting smashed by waves every 30 second. I assumed that no one could see me but right when I felt sand under my toes a life guard came up next to me to make sure I was okay. A little late but I was glad he was there. I rested for about a half hour and stayed in the white water for the rest of the day. Lesson learned.
I went surfing for the first time while on vacation in Bali. I'm familiar and comfortable in the ocean and spent a large portion of my childhood boogie boarding so I didn't think much of anything of it when I had to swim out about a quarter of a mile to waves. First wave comes and sure enough, I had retained my good timing from my years of boogie boarding and get a good jump on it. If I had been riding a boogie board, it would have been a really nice ride. Except I was on a surfboard and was at the crest of the wave when it occurred to me that I didn't know what to do next. So lying on my stomach and clenching the board I rode the wave straight down, piledriving myself into the water. Cue what washing machine. The board shoots out and the worn velcro bracelet on my ankle rips off and I'm left swimming by myself. It was at this point I realized how far out I was and how the waves were a lot more powerful than originally expected. I started swimming in getting smashed by waves every 30 second. I assumed that no one could see me but right when I felt sand under my toes a life guard came up next to me to make sure I was okay. A little late but I was glad he was there. I rested for about a half hour and stayed in the white water for the rest of the day. Lesson learned.