At This Staten Island Restaurant, a Kitchen Run by Grandmas
Just inside the entrance to an Italian restaurant on a recent afternoon in the historic St. George neighborhood on Staten Island, the smell of soy and ponzu masked that of onions and garlic. The source? A Japanese woman had taken over the kitchen to make gyoza and shrimp dumpling soup. “The dumplings are good!” said a customer at a table of seven, sounding surprised.
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